The Rice-Field Retreat: four weeks on an organic farm in Isaan

Isaan, the Thailand of rice fields and hospitality

In the north-east, Isaan is rural Thailand: endless rice fields, villages where people still greet each other, forest temples. Few travellers know it, and that is its strength.

The retreat takes place at Suwan Organic Farmstay in Udon Thani province. This farm of about three hectares, run by a Belgian permaculture enthusiast and his Thai wife, has welcomed guests since 2017. Vegetables, fruit, rice and coffee are grown here, fish and poultry are raised, and natural building is practised. Almost everything on the table comes from the farm.

Bungalows on a permaculture farm

Participants stay at Suwan Organic Farmstay in simple, comfortable bungalows set among the gardens and crops, one per person. The farm's shared spaces host the talking circle, workshops and meals. The farm covers about three hectares and produces most of what is served: vegetables, fruit, rice, coffee, fish and poultry.

What you will do

• Permaculture day to day: vegetable garden, compost, caring for fish and poultry, picking fruit, harvesting coffee.
• The rice cycle: depending on the season, planting, tending or harvesting rice, feet in the paddy, and discovering sticky rice, the heart of the Isaan table.
• Natural building: earth bricks, natural plasters, small group building projects.
• Isaan cooking: cooking workshops with farm produce, from papaya salad and larb to sticky rice.
• Isaan heritage: the Ban Chiang archaeological site and Phu Phrabat Historical Park, both UNESCO-listed, and quiet forest temples.
• Nature and wildlife: the Red Lotus Sea of Kumphawapi (in bloom December to February), birds of the ponds and rice fields, and the Mekong on the border with Laos.
• Village life: dawn alms for the monks, the local market, meeting weavers and neighbours.
• And every day: the talking circle, meditation and yoga, art therapy and philosophical exercises.